HOW TO WEAVE BEADS ON A LOOM, QUICKER AND WITH MUCH LESS FRUSTRATION!!
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DO YOU FIND BEAD LOOM WEAVING FUN BUT A PAIN WORKING IN ALL THOSE THREADS AND WISHING THERE WAS A WAY YOU COULD DO IT DIFFERENTLY?
WELL, NOW THERE IS!!
You would love to make all those nice bracelets, necklaces, keyrings, belts, etc but oh all those threads! This method WILL save you time so you can make more bracelets, necklaces or belts and so make more money. With a lot less frustration!!
I found this awesome way of bead loom weaving and at the end of it all you will only have….. TWO threads to sew back. How you ask?
It’s normal bead weaving but with TWO (only) slight differences.
1. You MUST BE CAREFUL NOT to split the thread with the needle as you work your way across the warp, as you will then not be able to pull your warp thread through the weft thread.
2. There is a certain way of warping the loom so that this is possible to do. I have used one of the most common looms so you can see that you don’t really need a new fancy loom. If you want a new, fancy loom then of course, you can get one, but it is not a necessity if you are able to thread the loom as shown.
What is a ‘warp’ and what is a ‘weft’ thread?
Warp Thread The long, strong thread running over the loom
Weft Thread The thread you string the beads onto and then weave under and over the warp thread, creating the weft thread
Dowel The round wooden stick at either end of the loom
Well, let’s get to it!
We’re starting off with how to warp (thread) the loom
To begin, tie one end onto the pin on the dowel.
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Fig 1
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Now the first trick is to make sure that the loom is strung in such a fashion that you can slip the thread off the dowel holder without clipping all the threads. In order for you to see more clearly, I have used pink thread for the warp and white for the weft.
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Fig 2
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Pull the thread over the top of the loom and wind around the pin on the other dowel.
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Fig 3
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Pull the thread over the loom and then wind it under the pin and over the top of the loom again.
Continue warping the loom with sufficient threads to accommodate the required number of beads to obtain the width of your bracelet.
This will depend on the size of the beads you are using.
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Fig 4
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You’ll notice that I am threading from the outside in. This is simply to keep my threads tidy on the pins and prevent a bunch of knots when the threads are removed from the loom.
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Fig 5
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Tie the other end down with a double knot as well (on the opposite side from your starter knot) around the pin on the dowel.
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Fig 6
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This is what your warp thread should like on the loom at either end. This way of warping is absolutely essential for this method.
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Now thread your needle and secure the weft thread (white) with a double knot to the warp thread (pink).
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Fig 7
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I have strung enough thread on the loop to hold 8 beads.
Now slip 8 beads onto your needle and pass it through UNDER the warp threads.
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Fig 8
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With one hand push the beads up through the threads.
Push the needle through the beads over the top of the warp threads, making sure that you do not split the thread.
Continue weaving your beads until you have reached the required length for your item.
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Fig 9
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Once the desired length is reached, work the thread back and forth a few rows. Make sure this row is secure so the beads don’t fall off.
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Fig 10
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Thread and sew the beginning weft thread through a row of beads to tidy it off.
I have used glass pearls for this. Who said it has to be seed beads or small beads? J
There, the weaving part is done!
NOW THE FUN BEGINS!!!
Loosen one dowel slightly and turn the pin towards the woven strip so that the threads can fall off the pin. |
Fig 11
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Lift all the threads off being careful not to pull on them and so warp your strip. |
Fig 12
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Snip only the thread that is knotted, just above the knot.
Gently lift your work over the loom and it will automatically slip off the pin on the other side. Again, snip only the thread that is knotted, just above the knot.
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Fig 13
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You’ll see that instead of loose threads hanging off the sides, you now have little loops.
What we’re going to do now is to pull the threads through the work.
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Fig 14
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Fig 15
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I like to start with a centre (or close to it) thread as I then have enough thread either side of the bracelet to finish off my work and still have enough thread to add on a clasp.
Now, hold your work in one hand and start by pulling the centre thread. Then take it one row at a time on either side of the centre.
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Fig 16
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Hold your work firmly with one hand and make sure you don’t pull the thread too tightly as this will cause your beadwork to warp and scrunch up. If you do pull it too tightly, just smooth it out again. After each pull, your thread will become longer. Continue like this until you have pulled all the threads through.
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Fig 17
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You can see here that on the left hand side, one of the threads is becoming shorter while the one on right (which I am pulling) is becoming longer.
You will also notice that you once you have pulled a thread through, the ends are pulled completely onto the bead.
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On the left hand side, the thread (which in Fig 16 was the long thread) is now also pulled completely onto the bead.
Continue doing this until all threads are pulled.
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Fig 18
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One word of caution : Don’t be too eager to pull the threads through otherwise you may pull them too tight and then ‘scrunch’ up your work. Be sure to keep your work flat and the tension even.
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And there you go…..
ONLY TWO THREADS LEFT TO WORK BACK !! USE THEM TO ADD ON A CLASP OR EDGE OFF HOWEVER YOU WISH!!
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Fig 19
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Here’s an extra tip for easier beading.
I don’t always manage NOT to split the thread so I use an 0.2mm clear gut with a long thin beading needle. I find thicker gut hard to thread and when you do manage to do so, the needle is too thick to fit through an 8mm seed bead. This method also helps to make the threads less conspicuous once the item is completed and you therefore do not have to have thread that matches your beads, as that’s very difficult to accomplish especially if you are weaving different coloured beads.
go ahead and have as much fun with bead weaving as I do and make lots of BEAUTIFUL goodies to sell!
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Please note that although the original idea was not mine (I can’t remember where I saw it so cannot give credit) the pictures, descriptions and additional ideas definitely are and are therefore copyright protected. If you wish to use this booklet for classes, please obtain permission.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any informational storage or retrieval system without express written, dated and signed permission from the author. © Copyright 2007 René F Bornman www.renzocrafts.com |
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